Ristorante alle Murate
Via Ghibellina, 52r
Tel. 055 240 618
Palates weary of unrelievedly
Tuscan cookery should hurry o Florence’s Ristorante
alle Murate. The logo, an empty birdcage,
evokes not only a defunct nearby prison of the same
name but also liberation from local tradition in all
aspects. The décor is modern without a hint of
rusticity, and jazz plays softly in the background.
Multilingual owner Umberto Montano betrays his
Campanian heritage with a warm welcome and hints of
southern sunshine on the innovative menu. The
cooking is light-handed, vegetables are treated with
respect, and the homemade pasta is stuffed and
sauced creatively. Not to be missed are the orecchiette
("little ears" of pasta) with greens and
broccoli or the farfalle (pasta bow ties)
with Robiola cheese, zucchini, and a raw tomato
sauce. Chocolate-chip-cookie fans should conclude
with the signature dessert called the Armstrong (named
after Louis), a monster cookie served with
unsweetened whipped cream. A limited menu is
available in the jazz club-wine bar in the back:
customers frequently stop in for a quick meal, glass
of wine, or dessert. Oenophiles should ask to visit
Umberto’s small but packed cellar – a lovely
personal selection of bottles.
FARFALLE CON ZUCCHINI,
POMODORO CRUDO E BASILICO
RISTORANTE ALLE MURATE
(pasta with Zucchini, Tomato and Basil)
10 ounces farfalle (bow tie-shaped
pasta)
2 small zucchini, scrubbed, trimmed, quartered
lengthwise, and sliced thin crosswise
¼ cup extra-vergin olive oil
5 ounces Robiola (available at cheese shops and
speciality food shops) or other soft mild goat
cheese, cut into pieces
1 large tomato, peeled, seeded, and diced
¼ cup chopped fresh brasil leaves
In a kettle of salted boiling water cook the farfalle
until it is al dente and drain it well,
reserving about ½ cup of the cooking water. In a
large skillet sauté the zucchini in the oil over
moderately high heat, stirring, until it is golden
brown on the edges and season it with salt and
pepper. Add the farfalle and sauté the
mixture, stirring for 3 minutes. Remove the skillet
from the heat, stir in the Robiola, and add as much
of the reserved cooking water as necessary to form a
sauce. Stir in the tomato, the basil, and salt and
pepper to taste and serve the pasta immediately.
Serves 4.
