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October1998
C A S U A L D I N I N G
A B R O A D
FLORENTINE
TRATTORIAS
DOWN-HOME COOKING IN THE JEWEL OF TUSCANY
BY FAITH HELLER WILLINGER
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Only the front room of the brand-new Osteria
del Caffè Italiano, also in the Santa
Croce neighborhood, feels like a real trattoria.
The decor looks as though it hasn't been touched
in years. The room behind it is another story.
This softly lit space features terra-cotta
floors, vaulted ceilings, and grand chandeliers.
Black-vested waiters sporting long white aprons
scurry about with an air of |
| formality that is a bit extreme for a typical trattoria,
though the menu is a standard one. The front
room, on the other hand, with its dark-wood |
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cabinets, shelves of wine bottles and glasses,
display of salumi, and simple, place
mat-covered wooden tables, feels just right.
People stop in here throughout the day and into
the evening for an espresso or a glass of wine,
some firstrate salumi or equally
impressive Pecorino. A blackboard lists an ample
selection of red wines by the glass or by
smaller less-expensive |
degustazione, or
"taste".
In addition, there's a much more extensive, much
pricier, written list. The lunch menu is short - three
first- and three main-course choices - and inexpensive.
I allways enjoy a walk through the dining room, with
its tablecloths and brass candlesticks, to the large
kitchen for a glimpse of its large charcoal grill and
imposing deep-red enamel stove.
Osteria Del Caffè Italiano
Via Isola delle Stinche, 11/13r
Tel:055269368
Closed Mondays
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