Bar-Caffè,
Pastry, Light Lunch
Caffè Italiano
Via della Condotta 56r
Tel. 055 291 082
Closed Sunday
No credits cards - moderate
Umberto
Montano, owner of Alle Murate, has created a
wonderful bar that looks old-fashioned, like it's
been there forever, just steps from piazza della
Signoria. He's paid attention to all the details, as
usual, and serves a special roast of coffee made
just for him, first-rade pastry made in his
laboratory downstairs, and a refreshing, lightly
carbonated, and sweetened drink called aqua antica,
served plain or with the addition of fresh fruit
puree. Sit at one of the tables next to the window
or climb the stairs in the back to a large room
upstairs, perfect for loitering after a shopping
spree.
Caffè Italiano serves a simple well-priced lunch
from limited menu, and diners have the option of
ordering just from one dish or a whole meal.
Restaurant
Alle Murate
Via Ghibellina 52-54/r
Tel. 055 240 618
Fax 055 245 474
Closed Monday, open evenings only
All credit cards - high moderate
Those who
are tired of classic Tuscan shoud head to Alle
Murate for a taste of southern Italian hospitality;
it's the domain of multilingual Umberto Montano and
his ex-wife, Giovanna Iorio, from the region of
Basilicata.
The restaurant's logo, an empty birdcage with an
open door, evokes the nearby (and now defunct)
prison of the same name and liberation from local
tradition. The decor is modern, with jazz music
playing softly, and beautifully appointed tables.
The menu features southern Italian classics like
Basilicata lasagna, fava-bean puree topped with
cooked chicory, orecchiette sauced with broccoli,
along with creative (but restrained) dishes.
Homemade ravioli, vegetable-sauced pastas, simple
soups are beautifully prepared. Meat dishes like
braised beef, lamb with artichokes, or fish, poached
acqua-pazza-style are among the main-course
selections.
Most diners finish with a dessert called Armstrong (named
after Louis) - a large, warm chocolate-chip-cookie
topped with unsweetened whipped cream. The wine list
is wonderful, personal, studded with gems -
enophiles will definitely want to visit the cellar.
Umberto saves a limited (and lower-priced) menu at
the jazz club/wine bar next door, where diners can
stop in for a glass of wine and dessert if they don't
want a full meal.
